……………… A little Sunday reading……..Somersault to most of you, Cat to me, had asked me if I could post this picture of the Anne Klein Couture Swarovski crystal dress that I designed, and the story behind it. She remembered that I had mentioned it a while back………….I thought with so much time on my hands you would all enjoy looking back at my 1991 Couture Fall Anne Klein Collection. This was exactly one year before I left the company after twenty years… It’s unbelievable that this was 29 years ago!……………………………………
When I graduated high school, before I started to go to Parsons School of Design in the Fall, my uncle Paul who was a big deal in the Ladies Garment Union [a very powerful union], got me a summer job at Norman Norell. I really new very little about designers and who they were, so I had no idea that Norman Norell was the premiere most prestigious American designer. I was just an 18 year old kid from Long Island with a certain amount of talent, who got into a design school. I had a lot to learn…….So off I went to 550 7th Ave, between 39th and 40th streets. This was THE BUILDING to be in if you were an important designer. Everyone wanted a floor in this grand building but few had them . Right across the street was the original Metropolitan Opera House! There were still gas lights surrounding the building. I remember looking at it in awe. Shortly after that summer the beautiful building was torn down and a modern, typical building took its’ place. I remember thinking all of that history, ALL of the WORLD FAMOUS performers who entertained all of the the people who came to see them, was gone forever. I was very said, but happy that at my young age I was able to see it before it was destroyed. So many people don’t even know that it existed like so many other incredible buildings that were torn down. I have found You Tube to be a great source of information concerning historical places that no longer exist…..There were so many incredible buildings that were once the height of NY that became relics of an age gone by…….I remember the first time I stepped off the elevator on the 15th floor in my navy blazer and khaki pants, my white button down and tie, and stepped onto the diamond pattern marble floor! The air was infused with Norell Perfume….It was intoxicating. I knew at once I was entering the world of Mr. Normal Norell. I was overwhelmed and excited. My summer at the House of Norell was a dream, but that is another story………………………………………………………………………
One day I was summoned by a seamstress and was told I had to bring one of Mr. Norell’s famous Mermaid dresses into his office for a fitting. I was shaking…….I walked in and the head sample maker, Josephine, was standing there with Mr. Norell, and his number one model and muse Claudia. She was in a tiny bra and little panties. I had this incredible pale blue sequin dress draped over my two out stretched arms, and turned BEET RED. I could feel my face and ears get HOT….They gently laughed and could see I was embarrassed. Josephine took the dress from me that I was holding like some precious offering, and I left the room. These dresses were NEVER hung. after the fitting Josephine carried it back to the sample room with the pins in it and handed it to one of the sample makers. When she was done it was wrapped in tissue and put into a labeled box for storage…..until taken out again for the show. These “Mermaid ” dresses were made in silk jersey from France, and each sequin was sewn on INDIVIDUALLY!!!! There were thousands of them….There was no chain stitch holding multiple sequins, that if broken the whole row came off……NO, if a sequin happened to come off a Mermaid dress only that one sequin would fall. These dresses were incredibly weightless! The fabric and the manner in which each sequin was sewn made it so. Needless to say these dresses were a fortune, and only the richest women and movie actresses, like Lauren Bacall who new M. Norell well, wore them………The Norell perfume will always be my absolute favorite sent, bar none. It just smelled RICH, and had a unique aroma due to the extremely expensive ingredients……..I purchased two bottles for my mother. It became her favorite too. I still have two unopened bottles, but you can still smell the fragrance. It smells exactly the same, and has not changed or soured with age…..After Mr. Norell’s death the perfume was sold to Revlon……They changed the ingredients to make it less expensive and ruined it…..another thing gone with the wind……..Mr. Norell would have been crushed………I worked there in the summer of 1966…………………………………………………………………..
Jump ahead to 1991. For my Anne Klein Couture Collection I divided it in to two color groups…..The first group was BLACK, IVORY, TAUPE, and BORDEAUX. The BLACK and IVORY bridged into the second group of VIVID COLORS…………….For evening I also had two groups in the same colors…………Norell was part of my psyche, and I always had something on my collections inspired by my mentor…………….On this collection I did The MERMAID dress, but instead of sequins it was covered in Swarovski crystals. I made two dresses one was all black JET and the other was all Clear CRYSTALS [the dress above]. It was a long sheath dress with a band TN collar as Norell always did. It had a high slit. I had my shoe company make two pumps one covered in he Black Jets and the other in the Swarovski crystals so they would match perfectly. I had the AK Hosiery co. make semi sheer tights black and in a silver white to match the dress. I didn’t want nude legs to distract from the dress. It was all to look like one column. The AK jewelry company made the jewelry accessories. It was all as I had wanted it to be. My vision had come to life.. One day I was summoned into the presidents office. As they said the machine was well greased so impromptu meetings rarely happen.. I had no clue what this was about since I usually wasn’t bothered as we were preparing for a show. He calmly asked me to sit in the chair in front of him…OH OH….something was up. He handed me a bill for the embroidery costs. They were astronomical. I could feel myself get red. He asked me if I had seen the bill, and I replied no, but I said I see what the bill was for. He looked at me straight in the eye and said, “this must be some hell of a dress” and smiled. He wasn’t happy but let me get off easy….PHEW!!!…….The dress retailed for $15,000. It was the most expensive garment I ever made at AK. Of course not one store would buy it, but we took special orders at Trunk shows. We sold SIX of them…two in NY, two in LA, one in Dallas or Houston, can’t remember, and one in Chicago. The president was very pleased. The dresses paid for themselves and then some!….I remember fitting the dress on Jac, and I nervously asked her if it was unbearably heavy…..She shrugged her shoulders and said she wore heavier ones in Europe. She said if anyone is lucky enough to wear a dress like this they don’t care or even feel the weight….That is not until they get home and take it off!
Jac was the Finale of the show. I waited for Anna Anderson, a tall Swedish blond model that Jac was often paired with in Europe, to leave the stage in the Black Jet gown, and made sure the stage was empty for Jac to make her entrance. Her gleaming blond hair was all swept back, her eye shadow was blacked and her lips were RED……As Jac stepped out onto the runway there was an instant roar. She brought the house down as I knew she would…………… This was a moment I will always remember………………I still get goose bumps………………..
She was so proud and looked absolutely amazing…….Jac wore the dress one more time at the Metropolitan of Art Costume Ball. In those earlier years of the Ball it took place around Christmas. As we exited the limo Jac left her coat in the car so she wouldn’t cover the dress. We walked up the grand stair case with Jac on my arm……..This time I was so proud, and yes she looked absolutely……AMAZING
Wow, thank you for sharing these rich memories. As other ladies mentioned, a book with copious pictures would be a treasure.
Thanks to Cat I’ve been looking up info on Charles James, then Millicent Rogers. Found some fun pictures of her here: https://danielledrollins.com/blogs/the-style-standard/millicent-rogers-and-our-inspired-looks
She could be wearing your velvet skirt, samburu necklace, and whisper knit!
Sierra, that you for the wonderful post! I loved Millicent Rogers. Her big sleeved white cotton shirts, boho skirts and her mixing of diamond brooches and American Indian jewelry have always been a great inspiration. Those blouse are back in a BIG way.
I am loving the stories and the pictorial, thank you Louis and Cat. The stories are so much fun! And Louis, that crystal dress and shoes – WOW! I bet Jac was stunning, the two of you would have stopped clocks on that night.
Those were the days. Thanks for the stories and the pictures.
Louis, Your stories are fascinating! I so enjoyed reading them – and will be re-reading them.
I would love one of everything! But the item that really caught my eye was the wide-stripe coat – the photo on the right – of The Vivid Group.
Thank you for taking the time to write your stories and show your beautiful designs for us to enjoy.
Seka.
Happy Sunday Louis!
How fun was this to read! I absolutely love your stories. What an interesting life you have led. You should definitely write a book and include lots of pictures!
This dress is jaw dropping. I love the way you styled it with those special hose and shoes. Do you have a pic of Jac wearing it? What a vision she must have been!
Such a fabulous collection!! I see many things I’d wear today.
Thank you for sharing with us!
Louis, I believe you did do one in suede. I Have most of your suede jackets you did in the earlier QVC days that are still so beautiful. You also did a zipper trimmed jacket in ivory with a navy trim. All timeless designs. Thank you again Louis. Have a great Sunday. Stay safe.
Carol…I remember the white cotton jacket with the zippers and navy trims very well, Angela the model, has it and wears it. It still looks great. I could never repeat that jacket foe QVC today. At least not at a price they would want it for! That jacket is a gem. Take good care of it.
Dear Louis, thank you for sharing your exquisite designs this morning. What beautiful memories of your earlier design years. I got chill bumps just reading along. I can’t wait to read your book when it comes out. I have always loved fashions and love your designs above all the rest. Thank you, thank you and Cat for sharing. Love you Louis.I
P.S. The black wool jacket with the gold buttons and zippers reminds me of one you designed for QVC a few years ago. It is still beautiful today.
Thank you Carolyn for reminding me about the QVC jacket. I thought I may have made a jacket like that for QVC, but wasn’t sure. I think I did one in suede too for QVC.
Louis, he was married to Nancy Lee Gregory, she was an heiress from Kansas City. They had two children, Charles, Jr. who has a daughter and Louise who has a daughter as well. Charles and Nancy were married for seven years. Nancy funded his business and the lawsuit as well. The lawsuit is what ended the marriage and the money problems because of the IRS is what ended the marriage. The lawsuits placed an unbearable strain on the marriage and when the IRS closed his business and wiped out the bank accounts, the money was gone, so was their home. Charles thought it best that Nancy and the children return to her mother’s home in Kansas City and Charles would stay in NY and try and regroup his business. He was never able to……the lawsuit was held against him in the industry and the design world was changing. Charles was gay and never, ever hid the fact but he loved Nancy and always claimed she was the love of his life besides being his muse. Both his children have the most beautiful letters written to them by their father. They were married at Christ Church….Park Avenue and 61 Street, reception at Sherry Netherland where they were living at the time. Gypsy Rose Lee was Matron of Honor. My Jimmie had their marriage license/book which was issued by the Church and all the guests signed it. Patrick Higgins, Elizabeth Arden. Austine Hearst. Once the well deserved Exhibiton at the Met opened, I was able to track down Charles, Jr. and have it returned to him with some other personal pieces belonging to his father. I had tried to reach Harold Koda because it is,always, mentioned that there were three Japanese that did all the hand work and no one knew their names……….well, my Jimmie did but I could never reach him, so I gave the information to Charles. Jr. plus so many more memories and information and stories that have never been published. My Jimmie was interviewed many times but they wanted all the salacious stories, dirt, gossip that would put Charles in a bad light. Jimmie refused, he said Charles was so much more!
There is a picture on page 41 of Mrs. DeMenil sitting on it but it’s not a good photo. If I find a better one, I’ll send it to you.
I wish Louis you would put your stories in writing or at least on tape. You have a wonderful story to tell, a world that no longer exists except in our memories. They are worth being told. oxoxox Cat
Louis
I still own some of your couture blouses, jackets from your AK couture collections in the late 70’s and early 80’s. The blouses look as beautiful as the day I purchased. Jackets are a little tight – Unless I am at my thinnest, I cannot wear. But again they still look wonderful. I cannot part with them so they reside in my moth proof cedar closet.
Louis, a Charles James story. He did all the interiors of the De Menil home in Texas, the exteriors were done by Phillip Johnson. She was a Schlumberger before marriage and a client of Charles. He used felt throughout the home, sometimes on the walls, sometimes on the doors, so unusual at the time. He was known to custom mix the paint for the walls, sometimes the night before to drive the painters crazy. When the home was restored, matching the original paint colors was difficult. There are pictures online since it has been turned into a museum. Jimmie worked for him when he designed a couch which is, always, referred to as The Lips! This was Charles’ joke, a naughty one, too. It is actually the shape of a backside! This, always, made him laugh! When you look at the couch, only look at the top half and you will see his sense of humor. It is the shape of a backside and repeated again as the bottom. It is known to be extremely comfortable! A mold was made from life and then measurements taken to enlarge. Charles had a wicked sense of humor! He designed a chaise lounge as well in gray. He was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award and he and Jimmie flew out. At that time, it took hours and no direct flight, puddle jumpers, 4 stops before landing! In Charles’ mind that meant he had carte blanche in the store! Imagine his annoyance when a bill arrived to his New York office! No, it was never paid. The DeMenil’s gave a reception in their home with Charles’ interior. Charles had all the trees strung with Christmas lights, so unusual for that time. It looked like a fairy garden. For the reception, Charles wore a white dinner jacket, cashmere turtleneck sweater (from Neiman Marcus unpaid) blue jeans and cowboy boots! Stunning and all before Ralph Lauren!
His wife, Nancy, passed away last July. oxoxo Cat
Dear Cat I believe I have seen photos of his furniture? Are they in his book?? I didn’t realize he was married. I always thought of him as being A sexual or maybe gay.
Louis,
Just loved your stories. I have long been a student of vintage designers – Vionnet, Patou, – and later Armani, Chanel. Just a fan, not a customer. Your designs have the same elegance and simplicity. I have many. Please continue to post your reflections and stories whenever a new experience comes to mind. Miss you so much on the Q but have discovered your blog so I’m almost as happy. I know you have had a great loss but it seems you are enjoying being at your beautiful home and hopefully not working as hard. Thank you for all your talent over the years and know that you have many fans who eagerly wait for whatever comes next. We know we will love it.
Dear Karen….I live such a glamorous life now….LOL…..today is laundry day!Usually Teresa does it for me, but she hasn’t been here in weeks! Thank God Jac taught me how.
Louis, thank you for the amazing stories & stunning fashion photos! Wow!!! What a glamorous world you were a part of!
My aunt always kept a bottle of Norell perfume in her bathroom. I never dared to open it & take a sniff so don’t know what it smelled like!
LOUIS- Happy Sunday. Thanks for sharing these memories with us.
You made my day!
Louis…………….Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! What a joy for a Sunday Morning!! The clothes could be worn, today…………..they look fresh and new and the colors so alive! Just right and perfect to uplift us during this trying time. Joyful, that’s the word! I love, love, love the background stories, the glimpse into the world that no longer exists. I loved how you detailed what it takes to make a runway show a success besides the clothes. I appreciate that you were one of the few who had a total vision, knew your concept and put forth your vision for all to see.
I miss hearing all of my Jimmie’s stories when he worked for Charles James in the 1950’s. The collections then were smaller than in later years but Charles was like you………..he was in control of everything! Never thought anything of having the walls hand flocked the day before the show because the clothes would present better! I lost Jimmie last year, so these stories were a gift to me of the world that had existed for him in his youth. Yes, 570 was the creme de la creme! The pinnacle, the MGM of the design world. What rarified air! The electricity in the air! The fabrics, woolen, silk, satins, the best available, so fine, so luxurious! Hand sown sequins and embroidery as well!
You are a treasure trove of stories! That Swarovski column dress is gorgeous, you could wear it right now! Jac, certainly, stopped the show in that vision. Wasn’t there a short version with thin straps and larger crystals, I seem to remember. I will read these over and over for the pleasure they give me. I am ever grateful that your vision and style stayed true all these years. That is what makes a TRUE DESIGNER!
Thank you for all you do and for all the joy you bring into our lives. We are so blessed to have you, Louis! oxoxoxoxoxo Cat
Dear Kat…..I’m so glad you enjoyed my stories. I enjoyed telling them. It brought back many many memories. Your Jimmie must have been very special to work for that crazy genius, Charles James. He was the American Dior or Balenciaga…..Now those must be stories. You should tell some here so we can all enjoy them!
BTW, there were two other short dresses with the crystals and jet.
Louis, what a beautiful memory of bygone days!! Some days, those are what keep us going. Thank you for sharing.
rae