“THE MARCH 05 DESIGNER’S GALLERY”

……………………In what I like to call “The Golden Age of QVC”……..once upon a time they used to have elaborate shows called “The Designer’s Gallery”. These shows started off each new season…..one for Spring and one for Fall….They created elaborate stages and runways in the cavernous warehouse. The host would stand at the top of the runways and each designer would have their turn with the host presenting their group of new clothing on models……The shows were so long they usually had two hosts to do these shows…..I’ll give you one guess who did the second half……They were very exciting shows to do and there was makeup and hair avail to the models. The QVC hair and makeup vendors were there to create looks for the girls…….Those were the days………….For this particular presentation I created a very special tweed that I had duplicated as close as possible to a tweed I used at Anne Klein. The original tweed was made by an incredible fabric company that was located outside of Brussels. They were know for making most of the Chanel fabrics. This was a company that was a few hundred years old! I made special trips just to work with them!! The company was in an idyllic setting. The buildings were all two or three stories high made out of wood, with old wide plank wood floors. They still produced their fabrics on old wooden looms. Their fabrics were all hand woven. No modern machinery here! They produced fabrics with a plethora of yarns in fabrics that could only be made on hand looms. Their buildings and looms, and walls of bins with hundreds of different yarns in different colors was a dream and looked like something from “Romeo and Juliette” or “The Taming of the Shrew”. I was privileged to have worked with these incredibly creative people. It was a family business, and like many of these very old companies eventually there was no one to leave them to or no one interested in continuing to run them. I was very sad when I heard they were closing…..Another chapter in Fashion History coming to a close…..That is the reason the Chanel Company has purchased many of these businesses like Lasage, one of the finest and oldest embroiders that ever exited. They bought a company that specialized in feathers and making custom shoes, and creating fabulous costume jewelry and many others…..all to save them from disappearing…..This was something that Karl Lagerfeld felt was so important…..and he was so right………The jacket was a 3 button shaped silhouette with set in band pockets…..It was lined in a FLORAL PRINT……..the same delicate floral that I used for a crinkle silk bow blouse. The bottom of the sleeve was slit so you could see the floral print. I believe we used real abalone shell buttons……I did the jacket in butter with blush, and mint with lilac, but there were fancy yarns also woven into the plaid. The blouse was a simple shirt body with front and back yokes that had shirring to add femininity. The sleeve was also shirred into the cuff……The cardigan and coordinating tank were in cotton and rayon. They had beautiful GOLD BUGLE BEADED borders, and tiny gold buttons on BUTTER, IVORY or BLUSH……The ribbed cardigan at the top had gold lurex trims, and gold buttons…..but…..what was spectacular about this cardigan was that in between each rib were rows of tiny gold sequins….the tank worked with both sweaters. This sweater was in ivory with gold and navy with gold……………The beautiful two button blazer and coordinating pant was in a new fabric…..a two way stretch gaberdine. They came in BLUSH, IVORY and NAVY. The top pocket had an incredible embroidered crest. It was emb. in GOLD LUREX. and outlining the lurex were tiny gold bugle beads……which were added by hand……The beautifully cut pant was back zip. I love back zip pants and did them many times at Anne Klein…….however…….I quickly learned the QVC lady wasn’t fond of back zip trousers…….they sold because they went with the blazers, but reluctantly….,..It was my first and last back zip pant for QVC…..LOL…………..continue to scroll down

This Post Has 23 Comments

  1. Sierra

    There were actually a few of these tweed jackets on the interwebs so I grabbed one (seems the others disappeared after this post as well!). I opted for mint and lilac with my coloring and the colors in my wardrobe. Maybe it will work with the plum WK skirt?

  2. Carol

    When I was in India, we toured a silk “factory” which was some wooden looms and a huge number of bobbins with every color of silk thread imaginable. They create some gorgeous brocades. I bought a teal silk stole with golden cranes in flight. I also picked up some scarves that have the most incredible iridescent sheen. I’m fascinated by fabrics. I’m the person who spends half an hour watching the lace makers in square or the rug looms. I admire handcrafters so much.

    BTW, I have a vintage AK necklace that has those candy colored glass beads and baroque pearls. It must have been created to work back to the original plaid. I happened upon an eBay seller several years ago who was selling off her mother’s possessions. I had bid on and won an AK couture necklace, and she emailed me that she had matching pieces. Turns out she had loads of AK couture pieces and I scored big time. I’m almost ashamed of how little I paid, but the seller was so glad to off load so much to a single buyer. It would have been fun to have a “nosey” in the mother’s closet, too, I’m imagining.

    1. Louis Dell'Olio

      Oh Carol….I would love to see the AK Couture pieces you acquired. Do they all have small metal tags that say Anne Klein Couture? Your necklace does indeed sound like one of the many pieces I had made to go with a spring group.

      1. Carol

        I’ll work on that for you. I’d be interested in hearing the story of some of the pieces. I’ll let you know when I have photos that I can email to you. You’d be welcomed to post them if you care to. I’m almost as good a photographer as whoever takes the jewelry photos for QVC. LOL

  3. Marie

    Somebody commented about being transported by your descriptions. I would have to agree with that! Your experiences would make for fabulous novels or short stories. Something along the lines of how James Herriot wrote such captivating stories inspired by his career as a veterinarian. Years ago, I read his entire series a couple of times, enjoyed the original television series and now am loving the new series. His stories have always made me want to be there, among his wonderful characters, in that world. As much as a book can transport a person, his stories do that. Based on what you are treating us to on a daily basis, it’s clear that an account of your experiences in the golden age of the fashion world would be equally captivating in it’s own unique way. You obviously have a wealth of fascinating stories as timeless as the fashions you have created in your career. You have all the creative gifts, the ability to write, a cast of interesting characters and unique settings for inspiration. Add to it, your great ability to express your knowledge of all the aspects of the creation of the fashion and even the skills to illustrate it! The best stories always have warmth and heart, we all know that is another of your many great qualities. I know I am just one of many who would love it!
    You have everything it would take to go that way, if it should be of interest to you to channel your gifts in that direction.

  4. Joanne C

    Louis
    Thank you for showing us your sketches through the years. I am so enjoying seeing them. I have purchased a lot of LInea during your tenure. I remember your show in the Bahamas! Most clothing in my closet is either Linea or Armani Collezioni. What always surprised me – both brands used the same shade of dark Navy. One of my favorite suits is an Armani Collezioni navy peplum suit jacket with navy Linea straight leg pants. They match perfectly – even in sunlight.

    Today I have on your Linea pine, magenta and black tartan jacket with Linea black slim leg ponte pants, Linea magenta blouse without the scarf and Linea burgundy glitterati beads and my own gold earrings.

    On another front I hope you own the patent on whisperknit. It is a so wonderful!
    Thank you again Louis!

  5. Seyma

    I can envision what it was like to be in this renowned factory known for Chanel fabrics. I can hear the shuttles flying across the looms. The scent of old timber and natural fibers. What a moment in time!

    1. Louis Dell'Olio

      Exactly Seyma….it was like being in a time machine, and all of your senses were assaulted in the best way.

  6. Mary

    Amazing and stunning!! What beautiful pieces and how beautifully made!! I am thoroughly enjoying your posts and the history behind everything, Louis. I too am dumbfounded to learn about the Golden Age of QVC—knowing what they are now. It must have been such a good era for you and your clients—and them. Maybe it’s a good thing I was unaware of all this happening as my closets would still be overcrowded with your beautiful pieces from those years!

  7. Goldie76

    What an enchanting account of these beautiful articles of clothing and the places where they were created. Truly, I am dumbfounded and in complete awe. A Golden Age, indeed, and in so many ways. For QVC, for you and for your clients at QVC. How fortunate they all were to have been looking at QVC during this incredible era. (My being was in a special world as I read your account of this extraordinary time. I was in a place of rhapsody.)

    1. Louis Dell'Olio

      Goldie, I have to say, for me, I was born at the right time and have been extremely lucky!!! The 50s were the perfect time to grow up. We played outside, rode our bikes….explored and had fun. The doors of the house were always open and no one talked of crime, because where I grew up there wasn’t any. We never stayed inside and watched TV. That would have been a punishment! Thank God we didn’t have all of the high tech stuff kids are glued to today. I had a great time in High School and had tons of friends…..I went to Parsons School Of Design in the late 60s just as the world was changing, and the sexual revolution came at just the right time for me!…..Timing is everything!! I lived my young adulthood in the fabulous 70s and started my career. It was truly “The Golden Age of Fashion”…American Sportswear was growing and booming, and I worked for the company that ABSOLUTELY created it. Anne Klein was American Sportswear! When I joined QVC there were very few designer lines….maybe 3 or 4….Bob Mackie, Dennis Basso [who did coats only], and Koos were the only ones I can remember. I started and brought something totally new to QVC. They started bringing in more and more true designers, but most lasted a few years, however they brought glamour and legitimacy to QVC. The letters Q.V.C. stood for something. It was the “Golden Age of QVC”. Today “Quality”, “Value” “Convenience” are not what that company stands for anymore……One of the ladies called it QMart. I think that was too flattering……At least Walmart knows what it stands for.

      1. Goldie76

        Born a few years before you, Louis, I understand what you mean about having had the good fortune of growing up in our particular era. We were very lucky; all the things you wrote about your childhood and early adulthood were true for me as well: We had safety, career opportunities, a feeling of optimism about the future (despite the threat of a nuclear bomb) and so much more. How easy it was then to have a decent job and get an apartment of one’s own.

        Your life has been blessed. Of that there is no doubt. What beautiful creations emerged from your divine impulse/inspiration and your hands. So many of us have received incalculable joy from your gift of beauty. Thank you. I am forever grateful to you.

      2. InStitches49

        Oh, I grew up in the 1950s as well in Nashville. And, yes, playing indoors was only in bad weather or when it was dark and late. Outdoors was a wonderful world of biking, climbing trees, and anything else you could dream up. And I love your posts of your fashions back when QVC was much better at showing designer clothing. I discovered your fashions back then and remember buying several of these items. Thank you so much for the memories!

  8. Andrea

    Wish I had seen that show. Does a back zipper make it more fitted? I have heard the hosts make disparaging remarks about side zip pants, so I guess the same concept? A more fitted trouser?

    1. Louis Dell'Olio

      Andrea, it makes a cleaner, smoother pant. Before all of the super stretch ponte fabrics where you could make pull-ons…these stretch gaberdine woven fabrics needed a zipper and sometimes elastic in the waist bands. These looked very clean and smooth in the front without a zipper and button, but women didn’t like reaching to the back to pull up a zipper.

  9. Grace

    Stunning. Anyone who owns that jacket has one special piece to cherish.

  10. Loretta

    Such timeless fashions. This jacket in butter with blush — delicious. I know it is dry clean only. Was there a push at some point in time to make more things washable? I imagine there was but I would be interested in your thoughts about this and the effect it may have had on your line.

    1. Louis Dell'Olio

      Loretta….absolutely….at one time most clothes were dry clean only, but as synthetic washable fabrics became more popular to the general public….the less women wanted to spend on dry cleaning. Silk shirts became less popular and polyester took their place. Then when silk prices and wool prices jumped synthetics were the main fabrics and all were washable. People just don’t want to spend money on dry cleaning. When ever I go to the dry cleaners I see mostly men’s shirts! I’m a firm believer any tailored jacket or coat should be dry cleaned to maintain its’ sharpness. Washing eventually will break down the fabric and the tailoring.

      1. Loretta

        Louis, Thank you for the insight. I heard you recommend dry cleaning the tailored pieces in one of your videos so I will certainly do so. As you say, maybe they will only need cleaning once a season. Since I have so many of the tailored jackets, which are in regular rotation, I totally agree. Goodness, while I was in college I worked in a dry cleaner. I had everything cleaned and especially my jeans which I loved to have starched and pressed into a sharp crease. I am old enough to
        probably never wear “distressed” jeans. Stay well.

        1. Joanne C

          I dry clean my Linea jackets etc. also!

  11. Kathy/Wis

    Louis, this jacket in butter and blush with the abalone shell buttons is the first purchase from your line I still have it and just sorry I didn’t buy the blouse.
    I love your pictures and stories from the past, those were the days.

  12. Somersault

    Louis…………what a knockout presentation! Your designs had to be the highlight of the runway show! Unbelievable that these gorgeous designs were presented on a home shopping show at reasonable prices. What a tribute to your talent and your vision. My heart breaks that I was not a QVC member at this time and missed out on all these glorious designs. I would wear every single one of these, today.

    You were so right when you say these were the glory days of QVC. You had to have been the star of QVC during this time. How much fun it had to have been for you to present designs of such a high level, knowing they were unmatched! My Lord, has QVC changed! Sad, really, makes me miss you even more knowing that this is the end of any new treasures from you.

    I am so ever grateful for what I do own……….my treasure chest. I look forward every morning to see your previous collections and the wonderful descriptions and information that you include with each collage. A fabulous way to start my day!…………Cat

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