Author: Louis Dell'Olio

…………..I had this idea to have a “SCALLOPED CORDING” made that would be attached to a tape so I could insert it into seams…….I spoke to a man who owned a company that made all kinds of custom sew on bands, and tapes in a variety of materials from rayon, to metallics  to straw….He also made pipping and cords in different thicknesses in a variety of yarns…again from rayon and metallic cords to straw cords and everything in between….I discussed with him if it were possible to take the cords and attach them to tapes in a scallop design, so I could insert the tapes into seams. He said he hadn’t made any, but he saw no reason why he couldn’t do it…..A week later I had different samples of different thicknesses of scallops with different spacing between each scallop. It was just what I wanted. I played around with the different variations, and settled for three sizes. One was very fine for blouses……I started to sketch!…..These croquis are just a few of the ideas I came up with inserting the scallop edged tapes in different ways….Starting just as an edging to a jacket as the sketch at the upper left. Then inserting the scallop tapes into ALL of the seams and darts, and the bottom of the jacket and the hem and seams of the skirt….as the bottom left sketch shows…….Then I sketched it also using it to outline pocket flaps……The different uses for the scallop tapes was only as limited as my imagination………….Years later when I was at QVC, I used the same technique for a silk tiny floral printed spring blouse. I had the print fabric made into the same scallops design sewn to tapes and used it to trim a scoop neckline…..down the front, and to edge the cuff of a 3/4 length sleeve……..Everyone loved this very custom, very designer detail.

…………….Every so often a designer must break away from what they are known for, and design something emotional, and the opposite of what they are expected to do….to step out of the proverbial box…..or else their blood starts to boil over….LOL!…….I was always known for tailored clothes, but I also loved to design ultra feminine evening clothes, and sometimes fun frivolous  clothes……clothes that would surprise an Anne Klein customer……In these croquis sketches are just some of my more fun and fanciful ideas for …….”FRIVOLOUS RUFFLES!”….I LOVE the navy jacket with the organza ruffle collar, and the red rose!…..over the georgette palazzo pant!!….The multi tiered, off the shoulder super short dress with rick-rack embroidery at the extreme left…..The bare midriff  rib knit top with the convertible ruffle georgette neckline worn with low slung drawstring easy linen pants…….and the summer sundress with ruffles trimming the shoulder straps….a pin tucked empire bodice and a ruffle border on a swing short skirt…….In my experience I have found you are either a ruffle person or not…..but I do believe ruffle people do have more fun!

……………………Sometimes a simple detail can become an important theme on a collection……….The side seam SHIRT TAIL cutaway bottom worked well for many different tops and jackets. The sketch says matte jersey, but it was too flimsy…I switched to a Rayon Cady fabric, because it had more body, and kept the shape better. It was also a better fabric for the shirt tail hems…….From left to right…..A tank midi length tunic worn over matching pants……Next is a strapless tunic, again over the same wide leg pant……Next sketch is a ballet neck tunic with short sleeves worn over a short skirt…..The last sketch to the right is a 3/4 length single button jacket with wide open sleeves, and a stand collar. It is worn over a simple chemise dress…..It’s always “in the details”.

……………….Navy and spring go hand in hand……BANISH the BLACK…..never……but Navy does come to the forefront as the weather warms up……..Starting at the left…….The placement pattern lace dress. The panels of the lace had a top and bottom design. You could custom order the panels in the lengths you wanted with the top and bottom design always staying the same. This simple short dress had a straight bandeaux-ish neckline with thin straps. It was lined in a pale grey georgette…….The pinstripe 7/8ths length double breasted jacket in the center had a large collar and lapels. It was paired with a petal pink silk charmeuse shell blouse and a petal pink charmeuse flower pin. The skirt was in the same pinstripe with a lace border peeking out from the elongated jacket……The pant suit to the extreme right was a navy and ivory woven pin dot fabric. The single button jacket had flap pockets and a band breast handkerchief pocket. It was worn over an ivory on ivory jacquard pin dot vest and navy Serge trousers…..All of the pieces had a quiet elegance to them…..A well bred look!