Monthly Archives: April 2024

…………………..There simply is no fabric that is cooler to wear in the hottest most humid climates than LINEN……I know there are those who do not care for the “wrinkle factor” always associated with linen, but there are also those who appreciate its’ unique beauty, and are willing to overlook a few wrinkles…..I, for one, love to wear linen in the summer, and I own a few suits, sports jackets, shirts and shorts in different weights of linen……..These Spring 1993 [I wrote the wrong date on them], sketches feature solid linen and jacquard linen garments…..I purchased all of my linen from mills in Italy. Some specialized in solids and others specialized in “fancies”, such as woven stripes, plaids, and jacquard patterns…..These garments were all done for my “DEI TRE” collection, which was an exclusive collect designed for Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew in Canada……..From left to right…..The “TWEED” linen single button oversized blazer [so popular today], was an extraordinary fabric! The mill that made this only worked with certain designers, and Jeanne Winer, my fabric buyer and developer, had a personal relationship with the owner, so he was “willing” to work with me…..It ended up being a fruitful collaboration, and we continued to work together. The yarns were very special. All were of course yarn dyed, but some were SPACE DYED by hand, which gave the tweed a unique look that hadn’t been done by anyone else…..I showed it with hemp linen color pants……The center Azure jacket had an Asian influence. It had modified kimono style long sleeves, and a separate band down the front from which self fabric ties were inserted. It was sketched with an ivory shell and a brown linen skirt…….The elongated, button front, sleeveless vest with high side slits was in a beautiful paisley jacquard in the azure and natural hemp color yarns…..The fabric was a linen/viscose/cotton blend. It had very cut in armholes. It was shown with a hemp linen long skirt with a back slit……The next jacket had a single button, and a draw string dropped waist. It had band pockets, long sleeves and a cut away bottom. It was in a hemp color silk, and was shown with hemp linen pants. I loved the mix of fabrics in the same colors……The center shirt/jacket also had an Asian influence. It was in the linen/viscose/cotton blend. The pattern was also in a paisley jacquard…..The draw string pant was in a hemp color very languid georgette……The collarless, button front tunic jacket was in a muted terracotta color shown with hemp linen pants……..The various linen fabrics gave these styles the look and uniqueness that I could never achieve with any other fabric.

…………………..Banding a garment gave it instant definition……….It also provides a bold and pleasing contrast……..From left to right…..The bottom DB jacket has bands at the hems of the sleeves and of the jacket. It also has a contrast collar….The next single button jacket also has bands at the hems of the sleeves and jacket. This jacket also has a contrast sailor collar and working buttons down each side of the hips. It’s shown with a ribbed tank and tuxedo stripe pants……the spectator flat has a contrast “mud guard”…..The little top sketch has a contrast yoke and side panels which always made the wearer look slimmer…..”smoke and mirrors”….. The three button jacket at the extreme right has banded patch pockets, and the hems of the jacket are also banded…..The pleated skirt has banded tuxedo stripes……Even the beret has a black patent leather contrast band………..You can never go wrong with BLACK & WHITE

……………………RED…………is a powerful color for any season…….I must say I developed a wonderful pure pigment RED……..It wasn’t too orange or too blue…….From left to right a Ponte knit three button jacket over a white Ponte knit skirt…..a leather button front cropped jacket over a ribbed sweater dress……A Ponte knit “sling Shot” dress worn over a white matte jersey fitted “T”………and a vinyl raincoat over a matte jersey belted dress……..Red always looked great on the runway!